Restricting the use of octocrylene in cosmetics to protect the environment
A substance widely used in cosmetic products
Octocrylene is widely used in Europe and around the world for a variety of purposes, in particular for its ability to act as a UV filter or light stabiliser in cosmetic formulas that protect against solar radiation. It is therefore contained in cosmetic and personal hygiene products such as fragrances, sunscreen products, make-up and day creams. Every year, more than 1,500 tonnes of octocrylene are used in cosmetics in Europe.
A proven impact on the environment
ANSES carried out an assessment showing that the use of octocrylene contaminates aquatic environments and soil. This environmental contamination poses risks to the reproduction and growth of aquatic species, and organisms living in sediment and soil.
The main source of environmental contamination is the use of cosmetics containing octocrylene: when these are applied to the skin, the substance ends up in domestic wastewater and sewage sludge. Octocrylene also contaminates lakes, rivers and coastal seas when people go swimming.
A drastic reduction in the authorised concentration
To protect the environment, ANSES has drawn up a restriction proposal under the REACH Regulation. It aims to drastically limit the maximum authorised concentration of octocrylene in cosmetic products for all uses. This however means that at such a concentration, the technical properties of octocrylene as a UV filter, UV absorber and photostabiliser will no longer be effective. In practice, therefore, the adoption of the proposed restriction will lead to cosmetic products containing octocrylene being removed from the market.
An effective and feasible restriction
ANSES also assessed the expected socio-economic impacts of the restriction on the market for cosmetic and sun protection products. In particular, it estimated the cost of changing formulas for cosmetics manufacturers. For sunscreens specifically, the Agency assessed the additional cost of manufacturing these products with alternative substances. The extra costs, considered moderate, could be absorbed by manufacturers.
There is a shortage of available tools for monetising the environmental benefits of protective measures. This is why the Agency conducted a large-scale survey of a representative sample of 7,200 consumers in six European countries, in partnership with Ipsos and the London School of Economics. This survey determined the average amount that a household would be willing to pay for octocrylene-free cosmetic products that would help to improve the state of marine and freshwater ecosystems. The price that consumers would be willing to pay was then used to assign a monetary value to the expected environmental benefits.
According to the survey results, the expected benefits far outweigh the costs of the restriction, showing that Europeans want to have cosmetics that do not negatively affect the quality of aquatic environments.
ANSES therefore concluded that this restriction meets the criteria of effectiveness and feasibility.
A proposed restriction available for public consultation
The proposal for a restriction is available for public consultation on the ECHA website until 24 March 2026. In this phase, all stakeholders are invited to submit comments, provide additional scientific arguments or share relevant information about the substance.
Following this public consultation, based on the information received, the restriction dossier will be amended and ECHA’s Committees for Risk Assessment and Socio-Economic Analysis will issue their respective opinions in September 2026. These opinions will then enable the European Commission, in agreement with the Member States of the European Union, to enact the final legislative proposal so that this restriction applies in Europe.